The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016

Full list of restaurants ranked 1–100, below (boldfaced the names of all 13 restaurants in Asia).

1. Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Best Restaurant in Europe)
2. El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain
3. Eleven Madison Park, New York, USA (Best Restaurant in North America)
4. Central, Lima, Peru (Best Restaurant in South America)
5. Noma, Copenhagen, Denmark
6. Mirazur, Menton, France
7. Mugaritz, San Sebastián, Spain
8. Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan (Best Restaurant in Asia)
9. Steirereck, Vienna, Austria
10. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo, Spain
11. D.O.M., São Paolo, Brazil
12. Quintonil, Mexico City, Mexico
13. Maido, Lima, Peru (Highest Climber Award)
14. The Ledbury, London, UK
15. Alinea, Chicago, USA
16. Azurmendi, Larrabetzu, Spain
17. Piazza Duomo, Alba, Italy
18. White Rabbit, Moscow, Russia
19. L’Arpège, Paris, France
20. Amber, Hong Kong
21. Arzak, San Sebastián, Spain
22. The Test Kitchen, Cape Town, South Africa (Best Restaurant in Africa)
23. Gaggan, Bangkok, Thailand
24. Le Bernardin, New York, USA
25. Pujol, Mexico City, Mexico
26. The Clove Club, London, UK (Highest New Entry Award)
27. Saison, San Francisco, USA
28. Geranium, Copenhagen, Denmark
29. Tickets, Barcelona, Spain
30. Astrid y Gastón, Lima, Peru
31. Nihonryori RyuGin, Tokyo, Japan
32. Restaurant André, Singapore
33. Attica, Melbourne, Australia (Best Restaurant in Australasia)
34. Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin, Germany
35. Vendôme, Bergisch Gladbach, Germany
36. Boragó, Santiago, Chile
37. Nahm, Bangkok, Thailand
38. De Librije, Zwolle, Netherlands
39. Le Calandre, Rubano, Italy
40. Relae, Copenhagen, Denmark (Sustainable Restaurant Award)
41. Fäviken, Jarden, Sweden
42. Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, Shanghai, China
43. Biko, Mexico City, Mexico
44. Estela, New York, USA
45. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London, UK
46. Combal Zero, Rivoli, Italy
47. Schloss Schauenstein, Fürstenau, Switzerland
48. Blue Hill at Stone Barns, New York, USA
49. Quique Decosta, Dénia, Spain
50. Septime, Paris, France
51. Maní, São Paulo, Brazil
52. Per Se, New York, USA
53. Hof Van Cleve, Kruishoutem, Belgium
54. The Jane, Antwerp, Belgium
55. Nerua, Bilbao, Spain
56. Mikla, Istanbul, Turkey
57. L’Astrance, Paris, France
58. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Paris, France
59. Martín Berasategui, Lasarte-Oria, Spain
60. Hedone, London, UK
61. Maaemo, Oslo, Norway
62. La Grenouillère, La Madelaine Sous Montreuil, France
63. Aqua, Wolfsburg, Germany
64. Lasai, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
65. Brae, Birregurra, Australia
66. Lyle’s, London, UK (Tie)
67. The Restaurant at Meadowood, St. Helena, USA
68. Tegui, Buenos Aires, Argentina
69. Epicure, Paris, France
70. Burnt Ends, Singapore
71. Daniel, New York, USA
72. Pavillon Ledoyen, Paris, France
73. Hertog Jan, Bruges, Belgium
74. Le Chateaubriand, Paris, France
75. Twins, Moscow, Russia
76. La Colombe, Cape Town, South Africa
77. Den, Tokyo, Japan
78. Belcanto, Lisbon, Portugal
79. Diverxo, Madrid, Spain
80. L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon Paris, Paris, France
81. Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, New York, USA
82. Hajime, Osaka, Japan
83. Manresa, Los Gatos, USA
84. Reale, Castel Di Sangro, Italy
85. The French Laundry, Yountville, USA
86. 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong
87. Indian Accent, New Delhi, India
88. Die Schwarzwaldstube, Baiersbronn, Germany
89. Benu, San Francisco, USA
90. Zuma, Dubai, UAE (Tie)
91. St John, London, UK
92. Quintessence, Tokyo, Japan
93. Daniel Berlin, Skåne Tranås, Sweden
94. Bras, Laguiole, France
95. L’Effervescence, Tokyo, Japan
96. Cosme, New York, USA
97. Momofuku Ko, New York, USA
98. Quay, Sydney, Australia
99. La Petite Maison, Dubai, UAE
100. Chestnaya Kuhnya, Moscow, Russia

為食鬼遊西班牙 必試巴塞隆拿La Rambla大街3餐廳

提起西班牙美食，西班牙海鮮炒飯、墨魚飯、各式各樣的tapas相信走唔甩。除此之外，如果歎埋蝸牛、西班牙「油炸鬼」Xurro（英文為Churro），再加一杯Cacaolat朱古力奶，那就大滿足了！逛逛巴塞隆拿著名旅遊熱點La Rambla大街，有3間餐廳可吃勻以上美食！

1. La Fonda

La Fonda位於La Rambla大街的Carrer dels Escudellers小巷，小編向大家推薦3款必點美食──La Fonda's mixed starters (小食拼盤)、mixed paella (西班牙海鮮飯) 及black rice (墨汁飯)。Mixed starters有炸魷魚圈、墨魚仔，甚為惹味；Mixed paella用料豐富，面頭鋪滿蝦、青口、魷魚圈等海鮮；Black rice的墨汁甚濃，香味洋溢，即使吃到滿嘴墨汁也無所謂了！

地址：Carrer dels Escudellers, 10, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

2. Los Caracoles

Los Caracoles同樣位處Carrer dels Escudellers小巷，餐廳以蝸牛作標誌，一看便知道主打蝸牛菜式，所以Special snails是必點的！Shrimps fried in garlic (大蒜炸蝦) 味道甚佳，蝦肉鮮甜，蒜香味十足！烤雞也不可錯過，雞胸肉亦又滑又嫩，難怪有曾光顧該餐廳的博客戲言，那裏的雞應是從小喝牛奶、聽古典音樂長大的！最後，千萬不要點漏Pyjama ice cream，當中一磚灑上花生粉的雪糕令人驚喜萬分！

地址：Carrer dels Escudellers, 14, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

3. Granja M. Viader

Granja M. Viader在La Rambla大街的Carrer d'en Xucla小巷，吃着這間百年老店所製的西班牙「油炸鬼」Xurro，配以濃濃的朱古力醬，可謂天衣無縫的配搭！還要點一杯Cacaolat朱古力奶配厚厚的忌廉，坐在懷舊的餐室內歎美食，別具一番風味！

地址：Carrer d'en Xucla, 4-6, 08001 Barcelona, Spain

Beginners guide to tapas

We are going to assume you have heard the word tapas; you have some abstract idea of what it may be. However, you are still a bit scared to enter to a Spanish bar and shout to the owner ponme unas tapas! (Bring me some tapas!). What if I don’t like it? How big are the portions? What on earth is a boquerón?

Here at Taste of Sundays we want to make it easier for you. You just have to read our explanations very carefully; the next time you travel to Spain you will definitely master the art of tapeo (going for tapas), we promise.

So, what is a tapa?

If you ask us, the tapas are the best invention since bread.
In a country when dinner can happen rather late (by European standards), say 9 or 10 pm, tapas have historically kept the Spanish people from starving. We just made that up, but you get the point.

Technically, tapas are tiny plates of food served to accompany drinks. It does not even really matter what ingredients you have in the actual tapa, as long as it comes on a small plate (and you eat it in a bar).

If a toothpick is used to keep everything in place, then we call them banderillas or pintxos. Pintxos are the typical tapas from the Basque Country, unlike banderillas, the base of the pintxos is usually a slice of bread upon which almost any ingredient can be placed.

Ok, but I still don’t know what to order

Every bar and every region has its own set of specialities; THE tapa does not really exist. Tapas can vary from toasted almonds to a mini meal itself, such as callos (pork tripe stew); the possibilities are endless.

It will take forever to make a full list of all the tapas (and we are getting hungry), so lets just mention our favourite ones, which are kind of universal and can be found in almost every tapas bar around Spain.

• Aceitunas or olivas: olives
• Patatas bravas: fried potatoes with spicy sauce
• Queso manchego: cured Spanish cheese
• Chorizo a la sidra: chorizo sausage cooked in cider
• Pulpo a la gallega: boiled octopus seasoned with olive oil paprika powder
• Pimientos de Padrón: small green pepers fried in olive oil
• Calamares a la romana: rings of battered and fried squid
• Boquerones: fresh anchovies marinated in vinegar and seasoned with garlic and parsley
• Gambas al ajillo: fried prawns with garlic
• Salpicón de marisco /pulpo en vinagre: octopus maritaned in vinegar with chopped paprika, tomato and onions.
• Conejo en salmorejo: rabbit stew

What about drinks?

The best drinks to accompany tapas are wine, dry cherry or beer.
If you want something less strong try a sandy or clara (beer with lemonade) or a tinto de verano (cold red wine with soda).  And if you are not into alcohol at all, you can order a cerveza sin alcohol (alcohol free beer) or mosto (grape juice).

When can I have a tapa?

Well, anytime really. You don’t even need to be hungry; tapas are just a perfect excuse to go out with friends/family and socialize over a glass of wine or a beer.

They can be eaten before lunch or dinner and are basically meant to keep you alive until the next meal. You are likely to have one or two drinks and order a couple of tapas or algo para picar (something to nibble), of course depending on how hungry you are and how late your lunch/dinner is going to be.

It is also really common to have them when you go out with your friends, regardless of if you have had dinner or not. The basic idea is to jump from bar to bar getting a drink and a tapa from each place. Tapas are the perfect trick for not getting too drunk on your bar-hopping nights.

A less traditional way to eat tapas, is to have them for lunch or dinner. It is common on Catalonia or Valencia for instance. In this case you will probably sit in a bar with your friends/family, get a bottle of wine and keep ordering tapas until you are all full and happy. Sometimes tourists are worried that just going for tapas wont be enough to still their hunger, but trust us; sometimes you need help to roll out from the bar after a good set of tapas.

Are they free?

More often than not you have to pay for tapas, however in some cities such as Granada o Leon, the tapas are free and you receive them when you buy a drink, which is kind of cool.

If you pay for the tapas, you usually get to choose what do you want. It tapas are free you most likely get a random tapa from whatever they have on the list. If you order several rounds of drinks, you probably get a different tapa every the time (if you are lucky).

If you are eating pintxos, you will usually pay according to the amount of toothpicks found in your plate by the end of the meal. We know they may taste good, but for your own safety don’t try to eat them just because you want to save some money.

Great, anything else I need to know?

Tapas are meant to be shared with friends or family (or strangers, why not), in that way you get to try many different dishes in one night.

If you want a bigger portion, you should ask for a ración (portion) or a plato (plate) instead of a tapa. That should have the double amount of food than a normal tapa; yet sizes can vary very much from place to place so we cannot really say how big the portion is going to be. Surprise, surprise! Anyhow, it's normal to order bigger portions when eating with more people.

Tapas are typically eaten in a bar. It is not something you cook at home, unless you are having a party or something like that. Everybody is welcome into a tapas bar, children and grandparents included.

西班牙精華遊 ~ Restaurante Can Laury Peix

要看到海才吃paella

身邊很多朋友會問到去西班牙的飲食推介，當中總會談到西班牙海鮮飯paella。我總會推介他們去找個看到海的地方吃paella。其實我也不知何解，總覺得paella是這個環境吃更有味道。等如去法國南部的馬賽吃bouillabaisse，不去舊港口感覺就差很遠的道理是一樣的。

由中央車站出發

西班牙之旅的第二天仍然在巴塞隆拿，那天的午餐計劃了去吃paella。選了的店子是在距離巴塞隆納個半小時車程的Sitges，那是一個漂亮的海邊小鎮。在巴塞隆納的中央車站（Barcelona Sants）坐火車出發，大概90分鐘車程便可以到達。車資只需要3.60歐羅，便宜也方便。

車票只是三元多歐羅

個多小時就來到Sitges

Sitges不大，個人估計面積還不如尖東，在市中行走行路也可以的了。從火車站行出來，沿著舊城小路往海邊方向走，不消二十分鐘就會到達。這裡有很多海邊餐廳，我的心水選擇不在沙灘那邊而是在遊艇會這邊的Port Ginesta，名字就是Can Laury Peix。

悠閒景致

餐廳分為兩部份，埋邊的是室內的位置也可以臨海而坐。一場來到誰會躲在埋邊，就跟這邊的友人找個看到海的地方坐下來。先來一杯生啤，就San Miguel吧。不要以為這只是個香港的牌子生力啤，但原來是由西班牙傳去菲律賓再來香港的。而下酒小吃就是一堆炸薯片，熱氣，油膩，不健康，但超好吃！

來一杯生啤

最佳的下酒小吃

三個人，點菜也不用多費功夫。主要來吃paella，加一、兩味前菜就行了。看冷盤餐牌上有一味鯷魚，二話不說的就要了一客。這裡吃的鯷魚當然比別的地方新鮮很多，肉質緊獎而魚味濃郁，帶橄欖油的香味又一點不鹹，跟在香港吃到的絕對是天壤之別，加上烤甜椒pimientos asados再放在烤麵包上同吃，美味。是日的鯷魚來自Santoña，是西班牙北部的海鮮重鎮，四時也有時令海鮮出產。

這邊的鯷魚很好吃

簡單的吃法，美味

在沙律一欄我的選擇是羊奶芝士沙律Ensalada de Queso de Cabra（ensalada是沙律，queso de cabra是羊奶芝士），羊奶芝士加上蜜糖一起烤，外邊呈焦糖化而內裡仍維找如絲幼滑。香甜焦香跟羊奶芝士本身的十足羶勁絕對是天作之合，叫人吃不停口。旁邊的核桃沙律及蕃茄等等，於我而言全是配角。我是羊奶芝士癡，這幾天來到西班牙也正好吃個不易樂乎。

羊奶芝士是我來這邊每天也吃的東西

是日在席的是三個大男人，那海鮮飯可以要兩客。西班牙友人的心水是墨汁海鮮飯Arroz Negro Con Sepia（arroz是西班牙飯，negro是黑色，sepia是墨魚，negro con speia就是墨汁），用上的是鮮墨汁那味道當然是特別鮮美。配料簡簡單單的用回魷魚就行，用料新鮮，也必定好吃。

先來墨汁海鮮飯

主角就是西班牙海鮮飯Arroz Marinera，這個二人份的海鮮飯拿上檯已佔去半張檯的位置，配料看上去似不多，但一路吃就知道一點也不少。計有大蝦、青口、魷魚、蜆、帶子及魚等等，飯粒以蝦湯煮過，很有咬口之餘也味道鮮濃。如你問我什麼是正宗的西班牙海鮮飯，我會說飯粒那種硬身卻又帶韌性的其口感及濃郁透徹的味道是令人一吃難忘的。在這裡吃一頓，滿足矣。

再來加入不同海鮮的

口感佳，味道好

三個人吃兩客飯，雖然最後也真的是一粒米飯也吃清，但也真的是捧著肚子。到了甜品環節大家也不太熱衷，就只來一客加泰隆尼焦糖燉蛋Crema Catalana。其實這也是一味法式焦糖燉蛋crème brulée的西班牙版本，二者也說是其原創的，是耶非耶不得而知。始終加泰隆拿地區與法國只一線之隔，相互影響絕不希奇。輕輕的敲碎焦糖表面再連嫩滑的燉蛋一起吃，因為這邊的甜品總是不甜掉牙不收錢的，所以只要不吃太多是很不錯的。

甜品首選焦糖燉蛋

西班牙友人都在餐後喝一杯些利酒幫助消化，我就簡簡單單要一杯鮮奶咖啡Cortado就好了。是日氣溫約12度，近海邊的這裡感覺是涼一點，大概是10度左右吧。不過坐在室內享受著自窗外透進的燦爛的陽光，我開始感覺到一點旅途的疲憊。

結尾來一杯咖啡就最好

離開餐廳，信步在港口的岸邊走回去。西班牙友人要去抽根煙，我也就短暫離隊，取了遠道經過海邊才向車站走去。看著汨汨而來的波浪，迎著面橫渡地中海而來的暖風。啊，是的，原來也真的很久沒試過這樣的輕鬆了。就在這十來分鐘的路程，我決意讓自己什麼也不想，好好的享受這個短暫的歇息。看著遠處的海鳥，不知此時在千里外的家人在做什麼？

EUROPE'S MOST EPIC HIKING TRAILS

Thrilling heights, breathtaking scenery, challenging landscapes—the world’s best hiking trails have something for everyone. And there’s no better collection of trails than those that wend their way through Europe, tracing nearly every type of terrain imaginable, from the fjords of Scandinavia to the peaks of the Alps. While many trails on the Continent are worthy of considerations, this list contains only the most iconic, dramatic, and beautiful hikes. None of these routes are necessarily easy to tackle, but the challenge is part of the fun.

BERNESE OVERLAND TRAILS

Where: Switzerland

Length: varies

A network of seemingly infinite trails in the Bernese Oberland (Bernese Highlands) area of Switzerland, these pastoral paths are some of Europe's most lauded. The trails traverse the vibrant green foothills of the Swiss Alps, encircling the stark granite peaks of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Expect to see waterfalls, glacier-carved mountains, wildflower meadows, and what very well may be the happiest and handsomest cows on earth. Hikers base out of one of the region's idyllic alpine villages, like Mürren and Grindelwald, and do a series of day hikes, or link the trails together for multi-day expeditions.

Insider Tip: The DIY options for hiking in the Bernese Oberland are endless, and considering that hiking is a national pastime in Switzerland, any local makes an excellent resource. If you're looking for more structure, or a guide, try one of trekking specialist Ryder-Walker's multi-day itineraries.

ALTA VIA 1 (DOLOMITE HIGH ROUTE)

Where: Italy

Length: 93 miles

Weaving through the dramatic Dolomites mountain range, Alta Via 1 is like a "greatest hits" nature tour of northeastern Italy. The rugged trail guides hikers from high-altitude World War I battlefields to towering limestone cliffs, past pristine alpine lakes, vast meadows, and craggy 10,000-foot peaks. The Dolomites may not be the tallest or the most famous mountains in Western Europe, but they are widely considered the most charismatic for their unique geology and photogenic rock formations, and the entire area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Alta Via 1 is a backpacker's dreams, lined withrifugios, or huts, that provide home-cooked meals and a clean bed.

Insider Tip: This hike is best done July through September, when the route is free of snow. If possible, avoid August, the Italian summer holiday month, when the path is the most crowded. Dolomite Mountains, a reputable local tour outfitter, can assist withrifugio recommendations and reservations.

TOUR DU MONT BLANC

Where: France

Length: 105 miles

Mount Blanc, the highest mountain in the European Union, has long lured adventurers, not only to its summit, but also to its magnificent valleys that extend into France, Switzerland, and Italy. In that spirit, the Tour du Mont Blanc trail circumnavigates the 15,781-foot massif, crossing through all three countries en route. The trail typically begins and ends in Chamonix, France, and passes through several picturesque alpine villages including Courmayeur, Italy. No camping required—stay in accommodations ranging from high-end resorts to dormitory-style hostels along the way.

Insider Tip: The standard route has many variations, depending on your fitness level and sightseeing interests. Consultautourdumontblanc.com to plan your trip.

LAUGAVEGURINN

Where: Iceland

Length: 34 miles

The name translates as the "Hot Spring Route," but Laugavegurinn is so much more. Expansive glaciers, active volcanoes, emerald green valleys, and technicolor mountains are also in play along Iceland's most storied footpath. In fact, the diverse landscape seems to drastically change every few miles, part of the remote island's fairytale appeal. Six huts en route make camping easy, and backpacking highly efficient.

Insider Tip: This trail is also referred to as Laugavegur, named after the main artery in the capital city of Reykjavik—a local joke regarding the popularity of the trail. Rest assured that the Icelandic perception of heavy traffic does not necessarily reflect reality.

EL CAMINO DEL REY

Where: Spain

Length: 472 miles

Originally an ancient Roman trade route, and later, a Christian pilgrimage, El Camino del Rey is Spain's most famous long-distance hiking trail. There are several starting points, but the end is always Santiago de Compostela, a cathedral in northern Spain believed to hold the remains of St. James. The most scenic route, dubbed The French Way, begins in France, at the river town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port located five miles from the Spanish border, and crosses through the mighty Pyrenees into the hilly Galician countryside. With ample accommodations, villages, and restaurants en route, hikers don't need to bring much more than a daypack.

Inside Tip: For an abbreviated version, follow The English Way, named for pilgrims arriving to Spain by ship from England. Start at the seaport town of A Coruña and hike 45 miles south to the cathedral.

無上知覺西班牙 Experience on Spanish Sensibilities

旅遊是生活生命中珍貴的一頁，是年輕紳士（淑女）得以身心自我發見的洗禮。十七世紀中開始，英國的世家子弟在大學畢業後，習慣往歐洲大陸旅遊生活一段時間，藉以學習親近歐洲大陸的文化、音樂、建築和上流社會的談吐教養，增添可貴的European Sensibilities。短則數月，長達數年，是為Grand Tour 。我非世家子，對位處歐洲邊緣的西班牙親身體驗發生在香港人都記得的八九年，撫今追昔，當日「因私出差」儘管Grand不到那兒去，卻開啟了我的美學視覺，及日後旅遊當地的感性知覺。法國文學鉅著《追憶逝水年華》（法語 A la recherché du temps perdu）的作者普魯斯特（Marcel Proust, 1871 - 1922) 認為，人的生活只有在回憶中才形成「真實的生活」。他對旅遊的觀念是，真正的新發見不是看到新的事物景觀，而是一對新的眼睛。

現在提起西班牙，大家會馬上想起西班牙火腿又或者西班牙足球。可是在我成長的七、八十年代，西班牙是一個在認知中完全陌生的國度。中學的西方歷史課幾完全沒有提及西班牙，難叫我想起它的甚麼，唯一在腦中有關連的，是當時在新界如雨後春筍般建成的白牆紅或藍瓦頂西班牙式別墅丁屋，又或在「前偉哥年代」 的傳說中的「 西班牙烏蠅」。

佛朗哥將軍（Franco) 在1939 年取得政權後半鎖國獨裁統治，在二次大戰保持中立，直至1975年佛朗哥離世，西班牙才逐步回到歐洲的舞台。四十年前的西班牙，在亞洲是跡近空白。

誰會知道西班牙曾經是歐洲最強大的國家，擁有最遼闊的版圖，遍及南美洲。在1492年，西班牙聯合王國的伊沙貝女皇（ Queen Isabel of Castilla）跟丈夫費迪南二世（ King Ferdinand II of Aragon）攻陷格林納達（Granada), 終於結束回教徒在伊比利亞半島長達781 年的皇朝，統一了奉天主教為國教的西班牙。同年，女皇差使哥倫布（ C. Columbus) 出海找尋新大陸。往後的是歷史。

女皇繼承人Joanna（ the mad)跟奧地利Habsburgs 皇朝的Philip（ the handsome) 王子通婚，誕下兒子Charles, 成年後成為羅馬神聖國王（Holy Roman Emperor ), 稱號Charles V, 承繼了兩個王國的領土，橫跨整個歐洲, 國力如曰中天。 一個擁有這般輝煌歷史的國家，它的氣派、文化和深度，怎會只局限於Flamingo 舞蹈和黑毛豬火腿。

西班牙帶給我的美學衝擊，肯定是最早、最重要之 一。八八年在《號外》雜誌當編輯時，李志超已到英倫尋夢。其時最興奮的事，是收到超哥寄回來的旅遊稿件郵包，寫罷米蘭名店街後，超哥再投一個重量級炸彈- 巴塞隆拿和高地（Gaudi)。

看罷，我靈魂已飄到伊比利亞。八九民運之後，香港人心惶惶，我前往西班牙南部Marbella 參觀物業，謀求移民後路, 當然安排順道到巴塞隆拿。

親眼見到高地的建築，尤其是聖家教堂（Sagrada Familia) , 是一生不能忘記的經驗。巴市街頭的上班族男士打扮，亦令我耳目一新。深藍西裝上衣，配或藍黃褐紅恤衫，結色彩對比強烈的領帶，棕色皮鞋。有型、自然、輕鬆又不失莊重。從來沒想過可以這般衣著上班，相比中環的藍黑灰，有斷然不同的生命力在流動。

但在其後，我旅遊的主力集中於法國，差不多踏遍全境，迷醉於它的美酒、美食和美麗事物。直到2003年，歐羅開始飛升，法國已變得不再便宜，我才再想起西班牙。法國的美態是修飾得非常工整的，像米芝蓮的三星級餐廳，每項細節一絲不苟，但有時會令人感到有點兒拘謹。西班牙的美沒有那麼刻意求工，是渾然天成的自然蒼涼加適度人工，像格林納達的Alhambra 皇宮。年紀大了，我漸漸更欣賞半逝的光輝。

我常說，在法國看到的建築多是三五百年光景，但西班牙，隨便就是八百一千年的古蹟，歷史沈澱的蒼鬱感，濃得化不開。

過去十年，我到西班牙六次，其一最大樂趣，是入住它的國營賓館 Paradores。概念有點像國內的國家迎賓館，選址都在最優美最私隱的角落，兩者最大差別是，Paradores 歡迎全世界所有賓客入住，並側重風景優美或文物豐饒的鄉郊景點，大城市反為影蹤不多；而且，很多是古蹟級的教堂、修道院、堡壘、大宅改建而成。Paradores 現有近百，我入住過十多家，其中有兩所是擁千年歷史以上的。入住此等賓館，你可以像余秋雨般「 千年一歎」，同時也可以恣意享受它不改原貌的品味現代舒適裝修設備, 千年一歎 「世界」。

兩年前入住位於西北部重鎮Ourense不遠處的一所本篤派修道院（Benedictine Monastery) Santo Estevo de Rivas se Sils , 位於Sils 及Mino 兩條河交處，深入河谷之中，可以想像一千年前在這幽谷中要建立一座以石材為主的修道院，是多麼艱巨的工程。

修院現改成四星半級的賓館，內有教堂，處處如博物館，並設有水療Spa。 昔日修士隱居的小室，改成客房，為保持完貌，面積不算大，但現代豪華設備應有盡有。翠綠環抱，山青水秀，四野無人，獨自漫步於迴廊，撫觸一千年時光風雨洗擦的頑石，又豈是雲石瓷磚鋁鋼材所能比擬。我跟太太說笑：「在這地方，有時間的話，修甚麼也修得成。」

如斯清幽勝景，居然有旅客留言投訴路太難找，而且修院大門前是小片墳地，讓他感覺不快云云。真箇夏蟲不可以語冰，生死一體，與天主及大道同在，何惡之有？先迷後達，又何等暢快。

我希望如普魯斯特說的，旅遊讓自己開了眼界，眼界開了，希望達致《楞嚴經》所說的：「隨拔一根，脫黏內伏，伏歸元真，發本明耀，諸餘五黏，應拔圓脫.......云何不成無上知覺。」

西班牙格拉納達 摩爾人的紅宮

西班牙的安達盧西亞，曾受北非摩爾人統治達5個世紀。那格拉納達城（Granada）的阿爾罕布拉宮殿群（La Alhambra）該是當時摩爾人的權力象徵。摩爾人與卡斯蒂利亞人的不斷加建，當你走過不同的宮殿，就如同經歷不同王朝的盛衰……

留住阿拉伯王朝

　　與哥多華大清真寺（Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba）齊名的阿罕布拉宮殿群，於1984年一併列入世界文化遺產。在世遺網站對阿罕布拉宮殿的形容簡單直接，指其保留了西班牙中世紀阿拉伯皇宮的特色。就是這句話，吸引了世界各地的遊客爭相遊覽。

 世界文化遺產的Alhambra宮殿群，其愛神木中庭的倒影很動人。

卡洛斯宮殿建於15世紀，以文藝復興風格設計，與摩爾人的設計有天淵之別。

　　進入宮殿前，導遊再三叮囑我們要跟貼，免得走失難找。兩個宮殿、碉堡、多個花園連塔樓，幾乎佔據整個山頭，迷路不足為奇。導遊以時光倒流方式，先帶我們到卡洛斯宮殿（Palacio de Carlos V），為16世紀天主教統治期間國王查理斯五世興建，內有資助哥倫布發現新大陸的伊莎貝拉女王專用房間。外方內圓的中庭，由數條羅馬柱作裝飾，在迴廊大聲叫，還有回音，感覺很有文藝復興氣息。看上一切簇新，實為修復的成果。19世紀初，法國人經常來襲，這宮殿也曾被破壞。轉角處，乃最精采的納塞瑞斯皇宮（Nasrid Palaces）。來此，有好導遊相當重要，事關好東西太多，單憑眼看，你未必會明白背後隱藏著甚麼意思，非要由他們來介紹不可。

處處金雕玉砌

 經導遊解釋，這是摩爾人求真神降福的文字，不少是取自於可蘭經及阿拉伯詩篇。

　　拱門多，牆身也有不少地方刻有星星跟月亮圖案，代表摩爾人信奉的回教，中間夾雜了些阿拉伯文字，部分是可蘭經，另一些是詩篇，歌頌真主及統治者。較特色的是黃金中庭（Patio of the Gilded Room），是整幅牆都是大理石雕刻，驚訝的除了仔細的雕功，還有工匠的毅力與恆心。另一不得不叫人佩服是天花，拱頂乃摩爾人的建築主調，常見的只在頂部畫花、鑲金或貼馬賽克，但這裏卻用上大理石，堆疊成蜂巢狀的，以阿本瑟拉黑斯廳（Sala de los Abencerrajes）及姐妹廳（Sala de Dos Hermanas）的最精緻，那種層次，充分表現當時工藝的卓越。

因戰事曾被遺忘

 宮殿群曾作為軍事用途，站在其任何一座塔樓，都可鳥瞰格拉納達城的景色。

Alhambra在阿拉伯語解作「紅色城堡」，有指黃昏時，夕陽斜照到城牆反映出啡紅的色調，因而得名。

　　13世紀中的納塞瑞王朝，文強武弱，統治的260年，軍事經常敗陣，相反科學、藝術、美術卻人才輩出，宮殿內的一切就是實證。至於常刊在雜誌上的愛神木中庭（El Patio de Arrayanes），以中央的池塘倒影見稱，不論走到南或北，看出來的都一樣。據說池中的水各來自南北噴泉，一直循環不息，為當時建築師寄望王朝能生生不息。1492年，穆罕默德七世最終要向信奉天主教的卡斯蒂利亞人投降。勝方沒大肆破壞宮殿作，只刻意在部分牆身加上馬賽克皇冠及加建卡洛斯宮殿。18世紀起，這宮殿群被荒廢了一段長時間，直至上世紀20世代初才有人提出修復。足足大半個世紀，這建築保存較好，主要是西班牙人當時忙於應對法西戰爭，無暇理會這舊建築，不然今日或看不到這個「紅色城堡」之稱的宮殿群。

天花移作工藝

 在Sala de Dos Hermanas，天花是重點，不花點眼力是不會看出上面呈現的星形圖案。

　　我們從宮殿正門出口離開，導遊趁機帶了我們參觀一間木工小店Laguna Taracea（地址：Real de la Alhambra, 30）。只見老闆Miguel在指點徒弟，聚精會神地又黏又鑿製作工藝品Taracea。他謂Taracea跟在宮殿內的天花圖案很像，也是其「引伸式」，還指這門工藝要兼顧圖案的整體性，不管是切割或是黏合，都要經過精準計算，錯一步或會令整幅作品壞掉，做一幅少則都要大半天，大的要花上二、三個月時間。他的店不算大，放滿各式各樣不同的製成品。為使Taracea更具功能性，工匠們設法製作手飾盒、墊盤、棋盤或茶几等。小小的手飾盒索價18歐元，買來送給長輩，該可討她們歡心。

居山中瞭望四方

 Alhambra Palace酒店有過百年歷史，勝在經常進行維修，感覺仍很華麗。

　　在格拉納達，食住地點倒要好好計劃。6月起，旺季來也，旅客漸多，欲遊Alhambra先上網購票為佳。我上網看過，6、7月暫時還有門票，要注意的是分上、下午場，聽說上午通常較易買到。如你停留在當地的時間不算長，上午遊畢，下午還可返到市區閒逛。至於住宿，Alhambra附近也有不少好選擇，阿拉伯風格的Hotel Alhambra Palace不錯。房間有向城及向宮殿兩種，兩者都各有特色，其餐廳也是不俗的，邊用餐邊可享受居高臨下的美景，還陣陣涼風吹來，爽！

 這是仿宮殿外觀的Taracea手飾盒，是這裏最好賣的。（39歐元/HK$390）

老闆Miguel正向我們介紹Taracea的製作過程。

 小市集Alcaiceria，吊燈、香料……教你像游走阿拉伯世界。

　　逛街的話，最好返市中心，大教堂（Catedral Santa Maria de le Encarnacion）旁有小市集（Alcaiceria），吊燈、牧遊人布袋、香料……色香味都教你有游走阿拉伯世界之感。

 La Alhambra

地址：C/Real de la Alhambra s/n 18009 Granada

電話：34-92-802-7971或http://www.alhambra-patronato.es

時間：冬天8:30am-6pm，8pm-9:30pm；夏天8:30am-8pm，8pm-10:30pm

收費：13歐元/約HK$130

交通：可乘坐巴士30及32號於門口下車

Hotel Alhambra Palace

地址：Pl. Arquitecto Garcia de Paredes, n.1 18009 Granada

查詢：34-958-221-468或http://www.h-alhambrapalace.es/default-en.html

收費：129歐元/約HK$1,290

旅遊 INFO

簽證：BNO或特區護照可免簽證進出西班牙

機票：土耳其航空來回西班牙馬拉加，由香港飛伊斯坦堡轉機，HK$9,980起，未連稅及附加費，

       查詢：2861 3111或http://www.thy.com.hk

氣候：6月格拉納達平均氣溫為攝氏22-30度

時間：夏令時間比香港慢6小時

插頭：兩腳插入式圓插

遊網：http://www.granadatur.com